Tech Corner: Tackling that DIY Lift Kit Installation

Alright, you’ve got your lift kit, your tools are together, you read the instructions, and you even ran out and got yourself a fresh 12-pack. You’re ready to get rolling. The difficulty of a lift kit installation will vary, as there is a range of kit types available and each application is built differently. So, while I definitely agree with making this an enjoyable process—you need to stay sharp. Sorry dudes, that means you’re better off saving that 12-pack for later.

Phone a Friend

Yes, there is a lot of pride to be had with accomplishing a lift kit installation—but let’s not get carried away. You’re going to lift a vehicle up in the air and then dismantle suspension components. Even if it’s familiar territory, having someone around to give you hand or at least keep an eye on you can literally be the difference between success or failure.

Don’t worry, you already have the beer, plus you’d be hard-pressed to find a friend who wouldn’t want to be a part of the process.

Bring your Jack Stands and Plenty of Them

We discussed jack safety in our post on preparing for this procedure, but we need to revisit the topic. This is due to the fact that some lift kits will need you to separate the axle from the vehicle. That means, you’ll need to support the axle and the vehicle independently from one another.

Basic Lift Kits & Spacer-Style Lifts

Complex lift kits usually aren’t tackled at home. The hours spent learning the proper skills and installing the kit itself can quickly turn away even the savviest of enthusiasts. Because of this, I think it’s safe to say most people looking to install a lift kit on their own are working with spacer-style lift kits. So to keep things simple, this is where we’ll start.

But before we jump in, I urge you to climb under the truck and take note of the condition of ball joints, hardware, shocks, and really, any part of the vehicle that you’ll be working with. Since the wheels will be coming off—and the tools are already out—now’s a good time to perform any needed repairs. And as we mentioned in Part 1, if you anticipate needing any replacement hardware (because of rust, corrosion, or stubborn bolts) plan ahead and pick it up before you get started.

Strut Spacers

For strut spacers, lifting the vehicle, removing the wheel, and removing the shock will be necessary. Some applications may allow for only the top of the strut to be removed in order for the spacer to be installed on top, but in most instances, the whole strut will need to be removed in order to install the spacer.

Leaf Spring Blocks

To install a leaf spring block, you’ll need to jack the vehicle up and remove the wheel. Then, the axle will need to be removed from the leaf spring in order for the block to be installed. This process will remain the same whether it’s front or rear leaf spring blocks. Though, it’s worth mentioning that putting blocks on front leaf springs is a very bad idea. Instead, you should install lift springs, as they are much safer. Also, any time leaf spring blocks are installed, make sure you are using brand new U-bolts to replace the old ones.

The video below shows the installation process for a coil spring spacer, which is also a cheap and easy way to boost your suspension a few inches for better performance.

Torsion Key Lift

Torsion key lifts are also easy to install and can be squeezed into this conversation. To install torsion bar keys, unscrew the torsion bar adjustment screw completely and remove it. Once the screw is off, the torsion bar tool, which would be supplied, will be used to put load on the torsion bar and remove the old key and bar. From there, the new key is put in place of the old key and the assembly is put together in the reverse order.

Yes, these types of kits are very straightforward in terms of their installation, but you can expect some bumps in the road. With newer vehicles, the process is usually fairly smooth. Older vehicles may require more patience though, as unexpected repairs or stubborn nuts and bolts can complicate matters and add some time to the job. My advice is to not let yourself become overwhelmed by these sort of issues—they’re all part of the learning experience and you will only be made a better handyperson in the process.

Complex Lift Kit Installation

This is where the topic can get touchy. Different applications with different suspension types are going to have a variety of lift kit types available to them. To go through every single lift type and application would warrant an entire book.

The best advice I can give is to follow the instructions closely and take your time. If the lift kit installation requires the entire underside of your truck to be dismantled, I strongly suggest you call a professional. I don’t say this simply because you may not have the skills, but because you may not have the resources. A lift that physically takes the vehicle up off the ground is the safest way to process a lot of these kits and without one, you can wind up seriously injured or worse…

However, if you feel that you can tackle the installation safely and are committed to doing it yourself, there are a few things to keep in mind—namely, each and every component you have to work with.

With any job, it’s easy to get caught up in the urge to rush. For suspension work, you need to bury this urge deep down inside and never speak of it again. Let the job take as much time as it needs. Working with too much haste can leave nuts loose, cotter pins out, or even parts installed upside down or backward. Not only does this only create more work, but it can be downright dangerous.

One quick thing to take into consideration is that vehicles with IFS oftentimes are better off left to the professionals. The nature of vehicles using this suspension require many steps for a successful install—as well as many specialty tools. Even a well-equipped handyman will want to consider professional installation, on account of the fact that the alignment can be so far off that the trip to an alignment shop can be enough to tear the tires to shreds. A good shop will be able to get the kit on and get the alignment squared away on the spot, so you can ride on safe and sound.

Removing and Replacing Stubborn Hardware

If you are working on an older vehicle, it’s inevitable that you will run into a few stubborn nuts and bolts. As we mentioned in our previous piece on prepping for lift kit installation, taking the time to soak hardware in PB B’laster or a similar penetrating oil can help expedite the process. However, sometimes you’ll still have your work cut out for you.

Honestly, stuck bolts will be your nemesis in any suspension work. They will always catch you off-guard, make you angry, and add time to the process. I don’t recommend jumping straight to the reciprocating saw, but you should keep it nearby just in case.

Personally, I always start with a breaker bar and some heat. Propane is fine but MAP gas really does make quick work of getting things up to temperature without having to worry too much about going overboard. Just heat up the nut and give it a rip.

While this works more often than not, you should still be leery of the fact that the vehicle is up on jack stands. Sometimes elbow grease just doesn’t cut it and smacking a breaker bar with a hammer and pulling with all of your might can lead to a dangerous situation. So, use your judgment here and let that saw do what it does best instead of crushing your melon.

Alignment

At the end of a lift kit installation, you’re going to need an alignment. Sure, a bubble level and some string will keep you from drifting off the road, but it won’t help the fact that the pavement will eat through those tires like you and your buddy do that 12 pack after all the hard work. Do your wallet a favor and just set up a quick alignment as soon as possible. Always remember, everyone should retorque bolts after 500 miles!