5 Modern Suspension Mods for Classic Rides
Building a hot rod is not like it was in the old days. Then again, muscle cars then weren’t what they are now. Modern advancements in technology allow for late-model platforms to be far more nimble and agile than anything coming out of Detroit back in the heyday could have even imagined. Obviously, that’s something a lot of people want to replicate.
It’s not fair to say that there weren’t always folks who wanted to make their classics handle better. However, most of those enthusiasts really only cared about what a car could do in the straight line. But today, people often demand more from their muscle car. They want the kind of thing that could blast down the quarter-mile, dice-around the autocross tracks, and still cruise around all day without breaking a sweat. Technology and savvy aftermarket suppliers are certainly able to accommodate this demand, and you can transform the way that muscle car rides with suspension upgrades that only a master fabricator could rival in the past.
Today’s aftermarket offers a ton of upgrades available for anyone’s wallet. Let’s touch base on some of the key areas you should focus on and what the benefits are to upgrading these components.
K-Member
Working from the inside out, the K-member is a suspension cross member that lives between the front frame rails under the engine. In fact, it’s what your engine bolts to along with your steering box. Depending on the application you’re working with, some suspension components also make their home here.
The K-member is pretty straightforward in design. However, from the factory, these are big, heavy chunks of steel and make for some clearance issues in the engine compartment. Swapping to a tubular design means you will have a much lighter piece of steel in the engine bay. The design also adds clearance to the bottom of the engine compartment making it easier to install large exhaust headers and deep sump oil pans.
QA1 is a go-to name in this department, as the company has an incredibly broad (and high-quality) selection compared to the competition. In fact, QA1 also offers full suspension kits, including this coil over conversion system that includes a bunch of goodies, including tubular control arms, the K-member, and rack and pinion steering.
Check out the video below for more details.
Control Arms
To reiterate, muscle cars were intended to move in a straight line as fast as they could. The suspension and suspension upgrades of the era mirrored that philosophy. Because of this, the control arms geometry wasn’t all that great. Modern-day suppliers in the aftermarket have honed in on this problem and made efforts to correct it.
There are many aftermarket names offering tubular upper and lower control arms for classic cars and trucks. There are even a few that offer pieces similar in appearance to what was factory, but with corrected geometry.
BMR Suspension is hands-down a superstar in this department. While the brand’s focus is primarily on late-model muscle, it also has fantastic offerings for GM classics – including handling kits with control arms.
Sway Bars
When it comes to improving the cornering experience, installing sway bars (also known as stabilizer bars or anti-roll bars) is a big must. Especially when considering that these types of cars weren’t typically outfitted with them from the factory.
Sway bars help prevent body roll in corners by running from frame rail to frame rail, keeping the chassis even and letting the suspension do the flexing. These are pretty cheap and fairly easy to install, and once you commit to this upgrade, you’re sure to see the behavior of your car or truck change entirely.
Plenty of aftermarket suppliers can help with sway bars, including Advanced Flow Engineering, ADDCO, BMR, Dorman, Hellwig, and Whiteline. This Stage 1 handling kit from Hotchkis is a particularly good fit, as it features both sway bars and springs.
Frame Connectors
As mentioned earlier, flex in the body is an obstacle you may be trying to overcome when upgrading your suspension. There are a few ways to do this, including installing frame connectors or subframe connectors.
In full-framed applications, frame connectors tie frame rails together much like cross member would. In a unibody application, these connectors will run from front to back between the subframe rails. This replicates the application having a full frame.
This job is fairly affordable but can be labor intensive if the connectors need to be welded in, as both bolt-on and weld-in options may be available. The results are well worth it, as this eliminates body roll and greatly improves drivability.
Competition Engineering is a name worth having on your car here. Good stuff, plenty affordable, and available in both bolt-on and weld-in.
Rear Traction Devices
As we make our way to the rear of the vehicle, chances are leaf springs are present. Leaf springs have been around for ages, and you can pick up a great aftermarket set that will perform excellent. However, they do have their limitations. On most applications, the axle can be placed at a weak point of the springs and putting the power down could really twist things up.
The twist isn’t that extreme with mild power, but leaf springs tend to experience what’s called “axle wrap” during hard launches. As power is applied, the pinion wants to rotate. This twists the portion of the spring ahead of the axle into an ‘S’ pattern.
As you can imagine, this causes numerous traction problems. A simple way to overcome this in low to mid horsepower applications is by adding traction bars or a pinion snubber. These devices act simply to prevent axle wrap by bracing the weak points of the spring or the axle against the floor.
These aren’t a “modern” upgrade, by any means, and in fact are one of the oldest tricks in the book. However, getting the rear end under control is always important and there are modern takes on traction bars that are far more advanced than traditional steel components.
Cal-Trac is the name to look for here, as it is a true leader in the segment. Lakewood is also a well-known and well-respected supplier of traction bars.
For the guys and girls out there looking to go all out there is another option.
In today’s market, 3-link and 4-link suspension systems have become way more common and readily attainable. Don’t get us wrong, leaf springs can hold their own and are worth upgrading. However, when it comes to eliminating axle wrap issues, increasing adjustability, and saving weight, link systems are generally the way to go.
The links are in place to locate the axle, while coilovers support the weight. Basically, more links means it will do a better job at that, which will count in tight corners and when putting the power down.
This type of set up changes the whole dynamic and function of the rear suspension and typically utilizes coil over shocks. This style set up is also rather expensive, but makes for maximum traction and a supreme driving experience. You’ll see this type of suspension appear on all sorts of applications including drag cars and road course cars as it is extremely versatile. Again, Competition Engineering won’t steer you wrong, offering excellent build-your-own 4-link systems. QA1 also offers great bolt-on kits for some popular platforms as well.
Shock Absorbers
Speaking of coil over shocks, it’s time we focus on the last line of defense between your chassis and the pavement. Shock absorbers have come a long way since the heyday of performance hot rods. While they might not look any different on the outside, advancements in the internal valving really have ultimately made shocks perform better and ride more comfortably — many even balancing both perfectly.
Shock absorber functionality plays a major role in your driving experience. All sorts of shocks are on the market today ranging from OEM replacements to coil over conversions. Depending on what you go with, the price range can vary from a couple dollars to a couple hundred. Shock absorbers are nothing new to the market and are very easy to sort through and manufacturers do a good job calling out what each is good for.
However, to get the most out of any of the other upgrades we’ve discussed, you will want to stick with performance shocks or at least those from a reputable performance brand. That said, adjustable shocks are generally best because they give you the means to control compression and rebound rates, which is necessary to fine-tuning your combination.
Deciding to upgrade the suspension of your car or truck doesn’t mean blindly going with what your neighbor is running. Everyone’s goals and tastes are different, and the breadth of products available reflects that. Some modifications are intended for drag racing while others are geared toward handling. Your application or driving style may not always mean pushing to the absolute extreme–and that’s OK. The best practice in this area is the same as any other when building a hot rod. HAVE FUN! It takes a little homework and a little bit of planning but it’s not rocket science. Aftermarket suppliers to consider for a job well done? QA1, Hotchkis and Lakewood.
