Coyote Engine Mods: Best Growl For Your Buck

This is Part 3 in our series on Coyote engine swaps. Catch up on the indomitable engine’s history HERE, and learn how to go about getting one HERE.

The Coyote engine is no slouch. With the ability to reliably turn out an excess of 400 horsepower around 7,000 RPM in its natural state, it’s going to deliver more than enough thrills in just about every swap as-is. Still, if you’re going through the trouble of planting it in anything, you might as well work it over some to make it even meaner than it already is.

So, where do you start?

While the Coyote may seem like a near-perfect engine on paper, there are a few things that keep it from hitting its max potential — much like every mass-produced engine out there. If you’re going after a mild build, freeing up some ponies is certainly going to prove worthwhile. And if you’re after big power, there are some more must-do modifications you’ll want to sort out first.

Since not everyone is going to want to have the same kind of power, we won’t break down the technical variables you’ll want to address in highly specific circumstances, or provide some secret recipe that every bracket racer Coyote engine builder needs to follow. Some folks may want to make as much power as possible up top. Others might want things a little more flat for low-end performance.

To compromise, we gathered some general guidelines you’ll want to keep in mind as you work that late-model Ford powerplant over. And to help, we brought in someone with first-hand experience wrangling this mystical beast: friend of the blog, Ryan Aillet, who you can find on Instagram as @grgbuiltcoyote.

Aillet is the owner of a fantastic Coyote-swapped 1965 Ford Mustang. He’s done all the work himself and even runs a Facebook group, Coyote Swapped Classic Mustangs. Dedicated to bringing like-minded individuals together, it gives these Coyote enthusiasts a reliable place to share valuable information. Picking his brain set off a bomb that spewed volumes of Coyote knowledge, and we’re ready to share it with you.

With all of that out of the way, it’s time to get into the Coyote and give you the advice you’ll need to build one the right way.

Oiling Updates

Before we get into the fun stuff, let’s jump right into the heart of the matter. The oiling system is one of the first things you’ll hear a lot of Coyote nuts jump on.

“When equipping ANY KIND of power adder, every coyote owner should strongly consider equipping billet oil pump gears and crank sprocket,” says Aillet. “These parts from Ford are very susceptible to cranking, breaking, or shattering, so it’s good insurance to have. If you are still N/A, you won’t need them as much. But, if you’re bouncing off the rev limiter or introducing crazy vibrations to the engine (in addition to the engine operating), then you will need the billet oil pump gear and sprocket.”

“Insurance” is the key word here.

Coming from personal experience, it’s not worth taking a risk on oil pumps — and you’re best to replace them any time you dive inside an engine. Regardless of whether or not you intend to make massive power, it’s worth replacing the factory pump. For those of you wondering, MMR is a go-to for this upgrade.

That said, it’s something you’ll want to have straightened out at the machine shop, as they tackle another issue Coyotes have: sharp edges. “There’s a ton on the Coyote block, and we make sure to knock them all down,” longtime Mustang engine builder, Tim Eichhorn, of MPR Racing Engines tells Hot Rod Magazine. “We even find casting flash in the oil galleys and make sure they are all cleaned out.”

Bottom End Assessment

While at the shop, you’ll certainly want to have the engine freshened up in the usual ways. However, you might be tempted to skip past some much-needed upgrades if you’ve heard rumors that the Coyote engine can handle 1,000 horsepower in stock form. That is true — but not for every beast going by the name. As Aillet explains, it really depends on the exact model you’re working with.

Generational Differences

“Gen 1 Coyotes can live happily up to 650 HP,” he says. “After that, it’s on borrowed time until you at least get a forged rotating assembly and, even better, resleeve the block. The optimum engine to have in the 1st Gen is the Boss 302, but the price point usually deters most. The Boss 302 engine (The Road Runner) comes with a forged rotating assembly, CNC ported heads, improved intake manifold, and a few other goodies that help boost it to 444 HP vs. the Coyote’s 410 — everything to help the engine breathe better.”

Gen 2 Coyotes, came out with a different firing order, better bottom end, and better heads – which Aillet suspects were built similar to the Boss 302 heads. “800 HP seems to be about the ragged edge for this engine,” he says. “During this generation, the GT350 came out with a larger displacement (5.2L Voodoo engine), Flat-plane crank, better flowing heads, and made over 500 HP.”

The current Gen 3 Coyote has several improvements over the Gen 2, Aillet says, including better ECM, intake manifold, port and direct fuel injection. “There are numerous examples of people building a stock bottom end Gen 3 engine to have 1,000+ HP,” he adds, noting compression is not consistent across the generational board either. “Compression ratio on an F-150 is lower than a Mustang engine for Gen 1 & 2, but the Gen 3 2018+ now has a 12:1 like the Mustang,” he explains.

So, what if you want the best of all three?

“Build a multi-generation engine,” says Aillet.

For example, adding the Gen 1 crank to the Gen 3 short block and then installing Gen 2 heads but having the Gen 1 cams creates an overall “3-2-1 engine,” he explains. “It would have the strength of a Gen 3, heads that breathe as well as the Gen 2 (bonus points if you get it CNC ported while you’re building), and Gen 1 timing components so you could install in a S197 chassis or if you have a Gen 1 control pack.”

Of course, there’s also the possibility of simply going aftermarket when it comes to sourcing bottom end components. Diamond Pistons, Manley, Boostline, and of course Ford Performance all have solid rotating assembly upgrades for those specialty builds. Still, there’s plenty of value to be had in knowing that you can essentially mix-and-match these engines to achieve a killer “stock” combination.

Head Work

You might be asking yourself whether or not it’s worth porting the stock heads as opposed to investing in an aftermarket set for the Coyote. That ultimately depends on your build goals. It should be noted that the heads on these engines are some of the best found on domestic applications, and their ability to deliver is largely to thank for the Coyote’s performance. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t room for improvement.

“Improvements upon the cylinder heads definitely helps, which isn’t out of reach for most,” Aillet agrees. “For the dedicated and competitive person, getting the heads CNC-ported, upgrading springs, upgrading cams, and possibly limiting or locking out the cams are things that build a better Coyote that breathes better at 7500 RPM+. Kicking out the cam phasers seems to have a divide whether to do it or not, as some 1000 HP builds still take advantage of the variable cam timing.”

According to DIYFord.com, stock Coyote heads can flow 289.4-cfm on the intake side and 201.4-cfm through the exhaust at .500 inch lift. Calculations show that CNC work increases those numbers to somewhere around 314.4-329.4 cfm intake and 221.2-231.1 cfm exhaust. That kind of flow through stock castings is outstanding in any case. However, aftermarket heads can be purchased through suppliers like JPC, which can easily match or exceed this performance right out of the box.

Manifolds and More

A head that can flow like the roaring rapids is still only as good as the tools it has to work with. Lousy intakes and exhaust manifolds will snuff things out in a hurry if you don’t pick the right combo for the job.

According to Aillet, the best-of-the-best is the Cobra Jet. “This manifold is meant for racing and usually doesn’t have hood street manners, as it’s designed for either wide-open or shut.” Next, in a close second, is the 2018+ manifold, which he says is much more affordable when compared to the Cobra Jet and will bolt right on to any generation Coyote. “Just remember to purchase a lockout kit with your intake manifold to lockout the IMRC,” he cautions. Ranking third for Aillet is the Boss 302 manifold. He feels this likely isn’t the go-to if your car is N/A most of the time, and says he mostly sees Turbo vehicles using this intake manifold.

“Porting your intake manifold will also improve the performance of your intake, and you do not need a tune revision,” he adds. “Upgrading your exhaust manifolds helps with a small boost of power. I have long tube headers, and I see the most benefit for these because of relocating the O2 sensor at the collector, instead of sampling only one cylinder.”

To that end, there are a number of aftermarket intake manifolds available to help fine-tune your power band to match your performance demands. Also, exhaust manifolds to header swaps can heed respectable power gains when combined with complementary updates. For example, Motortrend was able to squeeze an additional 40 HP and 20 lb-ft of torque out of its Coyote with a set of headers and other basic bolt-ons from BBK.

Aftermarket Cams

Addressing the camshaft isn’t a Coyote-specific modification. Any engine builder is going to make changes here to help get the kind of performance they demand out of any engine. Not only that, but the weight of the vehicle, rear gear, and tire height also need to be taken into consideration.

“Along with the lower compression, the intake cams on an F-150 are designed and tuned for more torque throughout the RPM mid-range,” Aillet explains. “Swapping for OEM intake cams of the correct generation engine that you have, or an aftermarket cam will pick up power.”

Consider that a PSA warning you about F-150 cam selection if you want something a little more top-heavy. That said, Comp Cams is always a killer source for off-the-shelf and custom grinds.

Boost

Your eyes are tired, and your brain is numb, and you’re hanging in there like a champ through this info dump. So, let’s spruce things up before we wrap things up. Boost is all you care about, and the Coyote — given that you’ve got the stronger bottom end or have dealt with the weak points — is a natural candidate.

Aillet says a centrifugal supercharger will get you the most bang for your buck, while a TVS/twin-screw supercharger is the most common. For big power, a single or twin-turbo setups are available. “It’s important to remember how much power the Gen 1 will tolerate before it will require to build it, because no one wants to have a surprise oil flush,” he adds.

Force-feeding air isn’t all there is to remember. More hardware should be updated if you’re after big power, boosted or not.

“If you’re wanting more power N/A, getting larger injectors for E85 will definitely help that person that wants to squeeze every ounce from this fuel,” offers Aillet. “Boosted Coyotes are required to upgrade injectors for boost and/or E85, plan to also a Boost a Pump (BAP) or add/replace your fuel pump(s). Consult with your tuner for help with selecting the correct injectors. And if you buy used, get them cleaned and tested before equipping them.”

So, how well do these motors respond to boost? Well, as Aillet points out, it’s all about the current setup that you and your tuner work out. However, our research indicates that picking up around 200 HP with a bolt-on supercharger package is the average. (Though it is worth noting that the folks over at Hot Rod achieved 1,155 HP by force-feeding a Coyote 24 psi through a Vortech supercharger….)

Anything Else To Know?

Even if you’re daydreaming about the 1000+ HP potential of the Coyote, you’d probably settle for the 500 HP or so that some basic updates can get you. You do need at least one more mod to make it all work correctly, though.

“The Ford Control Pack, when set up properly, gives you as close to a production Mustang as you could get,” says Aillet. “Tuning, modifying, driving, or maintaining is identical to a production car. There are other control packs or engine management systems like Holley and AEM Infinity, but the tuning will be up to you. There could be advantages with those systems I may not know about, but I chose the Ford Control Pack because I wouldn’t be learning a system that would feel foreign.”

Keep in mind, there’s still a lot to consider outside of what’s under the hood.

Everything behind it needs to handle the power this modern marvel can belt out. As Justin Burcham of JPC Racing told us in a previous conversation about Coyote engines, any of the manual transmissions that will bolt up to a Coyote, other than an MT-82, are not bad options up to 600 HP. The Tremec 3650 is a popular choice that was used in 2005-2010 Mustangs, he explained, noting the 2003-2004 Cobra Tremec T56 transmissions work really good as well, and that the 01-04 3650 Mustang GT transmissions are a good 5-speed option.

“For automatic, most guys are looking to move to the 6R80 transmissions found in the 11-17 Mustangs, as they are 6-speed automatics and very reliable to about 800 HP,” said Burcham. “For those who would like an automatic stronger than an OEM Ford transmission, we offer our own line of Powerglide and TH400 transmissions. These have been extremely popular in big-horsepower Coyote applications.”

Also, don’t forget about brakes, suspension, and that differential that’s catching all the stress. We’re talking potentially massive numbers — and you need to be safe with it. However, being safe does not mean boring or bogged down in any way when it comes to the Ford Coyote.